Story and photos: Ursula Maxwell-Lewis
Armed with the very versatile and cost effective Swiss Pass, my mission was to checkout as much of Switzerland as possible in a week via rail, water, and bus.
“The idea of the Swiss Pass is to encourage people to get off the roads and onto trains and busses,” one of the locals had informed me – adding that it would also save the Alps from the evils of pollution. The Alps, surrounding the unquestionably beautiful city of Lucerne, looked pretty permanent to me, but I’m all for saving the planet. I took him at his word.
My pass provided me and my gear with easy entre from Zurich Airport by train and bus to my hosts in Lucerne in just over an hour. Here was a multiple transportation key to a quick, flexible, cost effective way to avoid ticket booth lineups.
Lucerne, located in the centre of Switzerland, is undeniably a charming, tourist-friendly city. In summer the entire city and suburbs traditionally dress in a riot of brilliant seasonal flowers. An easy city to see on foot, or by bus, you will shop (or window shop) ’till you drop. I warn you too, you will be unable to resist the enticing sidewalk bistros and their delicious chocolate treats.
Take time out to stroll, or join the joggers, along the broad promenade from the old world charm of the elegant century old Palace Luzern Hotel to the city centre around the lake head. The views are worth every step. You can even swim in the lake, too, if you so desire.
Mount Pilatus, reputed to be haunted at it’s summit by a friendly dragon, was only a bus ride away from my hotel. Swiss Pass holders are entitled to 50% off the cogwheel fare from Lucerne’s Alpnachstad up the mountain, or by cable car via the nearby suburb of Kriens.
The world's steepest cogwheel railway only minutes from Lucerne
To avoid the steepest forested part of the hike take the railway to Amsigen (the middle station), and hike the rest of the way through the meadows. On the brilliant summer day of my visit, this seemed to be a popular alternative for many locals and tourists.
Room at the top on Pilatus
If you have children with you, get off the cable car at the Seilpark Pilatus. The trails around this part of the mountain sport assorted stations offering a zip-line (try the Dragonita if you dare!), log and rope, and other challenging activates. Prices include instruction and equipment rental. It was a hive of activity the day I was there with children of all ages having the time of their lives. You can also try the Frakigaudi Rodelbahn, Switzerland’s longest summer toboggan run. Length? An exhilarating 4,429 feet.
We chose the cable car ride for our return to base, plus the short bus ride from Kreins to Lucerne.
Stop, hike, shop. It's all in a Swiss days sail.
It struck me as ironic that this leisurely, historic sailing tradition was to transport us to view rail history in the making. We were to view the construction site of what will be the world’s longest railway tunnel.
A Swiss pass is traveller's best friend in Switxerland
Even in sun-drenched June, it was easy to imagine a winterlude scene replacing bikers with skiers and snowboarders crunching through the snow. It was almost too good to be true. But – that’s Switzerland.
We completed our last few days in this area inspecting the Gotthard Tunnel Visitors site – a recommended stop for engineers and those fascinated by rail history. After 50 years of planning, engineering, and major construction, the Gotthard Base Tunnel is scheduled to go into operation at the end of 2015. The AlpTransit Gotthard will be 57kms long and is billed as the construction project of the century. To date a total of 153.5 km of tunnels, galleries and passages have been built. 68.1% of the tunnel has been excavated.
While here, we also had the opportunity to see the newly released IMAX film, The Alps, which opens in Vancouver later this year. I heartily recommend it. It is the story of John Harlin 111, son of legendary mountaineer John Harlin11, who returns to climb the north face of the Eiger 40 years it had claimed his father. It is a haunting, and sensitively produced film. You won’t fail to be moved as the young climber (watched through a telescope by his wife and daughter) pays tribute to his father at the spot where he was last seen. The Eiger has been mentioned in records dating back to the 13th century and towers over 1,800 m (5,900 ft.) above the Bernese Oberland valley below.
Please check back soon for future Swiss travel postings. This was only part of a memorable trip through a green and pleasant land.
If you go:
City of Lucerne: www.luzern.org
Mount Pilatus: http://www.pilatus.ch/default.asp?sprache=E
Swiss Tourism: www.myswitzerland.com
Sailing on Lake Lucerne: www.lakelucerne.ch
Rail Europe: www.raileurope.com
Discover Switzerland by Train, Bus and Boat: www.swisstravelsystem.ch
Gotthard Base Tunnel : http://www.alptransit.ch/pages/e/aktuell/index.php for current project information
1 Comment
May 3, 2009 at 7:24 pm
Hi, interesting post. I have been wondering about this issue,so thanks for writing. I will definitely be coming back to your blog.